Lying on a comfortable bed, and cuddled by fruit smoothies dizzying and delicious food, fattening cows as we have allowed the chain of our custom-built cars on two wheels to rust in ten days elapsed between Siem Reap and Angkor. More than a week still in the same place?!? Robe by tourists on holiday who are content to stand in any panciolle hotel in ibiza, not loving travelers exploration and hard work as we do ... so what are we waiting for? All aboard ... you again!

We stop near a landmark, in front of the entrance gate of an old house where a man who has certainly seen all the colors in its longevity, hidden behind the wall of his house, remains almost numb to our appearance. A middle-aged man looking from the opposite side of the road perched sula hot mid-morning in the land of silent waiting, decides it's time to chat with strangers and handling it reaches us on his bicycle with one leg in the flesh . The friendly cambodian speaks understandable English and proudly tells his adventures in war, where, instead of the usual useless medals, earned a new plastic leg ..! In his eyes shines a light that scares us as we relive those days, a lust for revenge and a deep desire to return to combat. We do not share his feelings and we can not understand them, also it's getting late and we still have a long way to go today. We welcome the veteran still entranced by the adventures in war and the old man of the house, putting aside the initial shyness, he approached to be able to search better. No photos of chickens to people, but also many thoughts in my head on the way to the natural reserve of Ang Trapeang. The gray strip, regardless of our tires, burn them a bit 'to each spin, now does not want to end. 71 km under the blazing sun of mid-day, hard legs and shortness of breath after ten days of rest, but not all. To reach the reserve, the path deviates by 90 ° on the right is unpaved, dusty and full of craters capable of swallowing or even one of those fat lazy water buffaloes grazing in the area: the end result is a sudden change of average speed from 20 km / h to about 8-9 ... and the luck of the day will be off-road only 18 km ... The town of Phnom Sroka immediately wins us with a banquet where accoglindoci vendutolo is delicious sugar cane juice, a manna of sweetness after a turbulent path. Wandering through the village homestay or guesthouse but even the shadow ... there is nothing else to do than to interrogate three boys on the opportunities of micro-credit agency of the night. One of these volunteers to stay with them in the home of his parents, located not far from the office. Three minutes of terror through narrow, winding streets and we find ourselves thrown in the fifties, in the courtyard of an old house surrounded by a railing ten people of all ages, curious and a bit surprised. A child's beard fixed Leoe begins to cry loudly, others are exchanged embarrassed glances and burst out laughing: we have won their sympathy! Vvandy must return to work but promised to take us to reserve the same evening. Sometimes it looks, smiles or simple gestures are louder than words and realize it during the next hour talks between dumb and mimicry worthy of the most famous theatrical performance of Hamlet. The bathroom is outside of our homestay located about thirty yards from the house, has a Turkish bath and a large ceramic tiled and filled with tap water from a plastic bowl for rising off the burning of day. E 'X time and our two leaders are on a motorbike to take us: it starts!