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Tue, set 07, 2010
Utopia is like the horizon: I walk two steps and it gets two steps away. I walk ten steps, and it moves ten steps away. The horizon is unreachable. So what is utopia for? For this: we need it to keep walking!
Eduardo Galeano
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The fame of Argentina is usually linked to tango and gauchos, but many travelers are especially attracted by its natural wonders ranging from the deserts of North cordillera of the Andes and the southern and desolated beautiful landscapes of Patagonia. In this extreme land i decided, with Alexander, to make my first (and so far only) raid in MTB. Descriptions of estasiate Chatwin have influenced me greatly in the choice of my first great adventure on two wheels, although the wide-open and "free" spaces have always exerted a strong attraction to a "enclosed" like me (living in the middle of the Alps, great for other reasons, infinite horizons are not very familiar to me!). By planning the trip, we realized how depopulated Patagonia is, especially in the central area where the Pampa dominate. The first idea was to go to the largely mythical "ruta 40", which crosses the Argentina from north to south, crosing the border to Chile for a few days on the equally famous " Carretera Austral." In fact, reaching the town of Perito Moreno, we opted for a detour on the Atlantic coast, renouncing the MTB partially because of prohibitive weather conditions (the trip was made in October, early spring) and the desire to dwell more in the "Parque Los Glaciares National "for a few days of trekking to Cerro Torre and Fitz Roy, mythical mountains for us Trentino. The last day of travel also, as expected were spent in Buenos Aires in order to visit the cordialissimi and hospitable relatives Ale.
As the raid was in far 2000, the memories are a little softer and therefore it would be impossible to write a detailed summary: at those times because I did not have the habit of keeping a diary (which advice to do to everyone when undertakes a trip!). What I have not forgotten and that can still report is the emotion lived in miles and miles of desert landscape without encountering a living soul: these strong feelings of freedom, lightness, complete symbiosis with the land and nature, will remain in my heart forever. And when i reached a small village, a little town, a single fazenda (farm), i faced with the warm welcome of the people, surprised by the passage of two travelers on a bicycle and at the same time solidal with the effort engraved on our faces (nothing compared to the difficulties that they face in order to survive in these extreme lands!).
Following, there are short notes taken by Ale, my fellow traveller, during our trip, stage by stage :
La Patagonia:
from Bariloche to El Chalten
1st stage: San Carlos de Bariloche - El Bolson Km 130
From San Carlos we head to El Bolson. On a road nearly everywhere tar sealed. The route is marked by numerous climbs. At about mid way there is a camp where you can set the tent. Attractions in San Carlos petrified forest of Arrayanes. There are 3 across the world, the other two in China and Russia.
2nd stage: El Bolson - Epuyen Km 50
Stage totally on tar seal. Only the last 10 km are on gravel road. In Epuyen you can sleep at the camp "Refuge del Lago" very welcoming.
3rd stage: Epuyen Cholila Km 80
The road is now up, to about 6 km, even if the road is fortunately sealed. After this climb begins dirt road that will be with us for almost every kilometer of the journey. This stage is characterized by a wonderful panorama that has accompanied us for every rode meter. From now on the road will be asphalted just few kilometers. Cholila is a small village where you can sleep in a small dormitory on the main square. Better arrive in the village with some food as there is no store but a petrol station to buy anything to eat.
4th stage: Cholila - Esquel Km 120
Travels - Leo's travels
Ciao, avevo acceso il pc solo per vedere il meteo, e mi sono trovato a leggere i tuoi viaggi descritti e illustrati bene.
In alcuni di quei posti ci sono passato anche io, sempre molto velocemente, causa il lavoro, palla al piede,e la famiglia, elemento irrinunciabile.
La bici ci accomuna, negli ultimi anni ho fatto dei bei giri, ma sto sognando il giro perfetto intorno al pianeta.
Aspetto la pensione, ho 48 anni, speriamo......
Nel frattempo faccio dei giretti per tenere i muscoli caldi.
Vivo ai piedi dell'altopiano di asiago, magari pedalando ci incontriamo.
Ciao Lucio.